"Lines of Descent"

Celebrating the culture of the Seven Celtic Nations at Sycamore Shoals, East Tennessee

Sycamore Shoals Celtic Festival, 9th September 2012

We are staying at the home of our good friends Buddy & Beth Arnold and their son Sam in Johnson City, East Tennessee. Sometimes known as “Little Chicago”, local lore has it that Al Capone made the town the centre of his Appalachian bootlegging activities. Whatever the truth of this, Johnson City now has a lively musical scene that hosts the Little Chicago Blues Festival, the Umoja African-American and Latino festival, and the Blue Plum Festival of blue grass and American folk music. 

But we’re here for the Sycamore Shoals Celtic Festival in nearby Elizabethton. Sycamore Shoals marked a turning point in the fortunes of the American Revolution. In March 1780, 2,000 patriots gathered on this spot to march over the mountains and engage local loyalists led by Major Patrick Ferguson. Ferguson was a Scottish officer in the British Army and was killed when his militia was defeated by the patriot “overmountain men” at Kings Mountain. Today as we make the short drive through the beautiful Smoky Mountains, Beth assures us that this is “God’s own country”.

The festival is organised by the Upper East Tennessee Celtic Society to promote the Celtic culture, traditions, customs, history and music of the men and women who settled this part of Appalachia. While all that might sound rather high-minded, the weekend is a fun programme of jousting displays, fancy dress competitions, bonnie knees contests, sheep dog herding, storytelling, folk music and Celtic rock. The vendors and representatives of the clans are here too.

While listening to the music, Melanie and I meet Jack Beck. Originally from Scotland, Jack is a performer of traditional songs and ballads and hosts the “Celtic Clanjamphry” on local radio. As we sit and talk, Jack explains his passion for the folk music that was brought here by settlers from the British Isles. He talks about their songs and fiddle music and how they were adapted locally and fused with other musical traditions. He uses the expression “lines of descent” to describe the link between American folk music and its roots across the Atlantic.

It occurs to me that it is not just folk music that has a “line of descent” from Scotland and other Celtic cultures. There are “lines of descent” in the timing, technique and interpretation of Highland dancing, the notation of the piobaireachd and the rules for the athletic events at Scottish games. These tie many cultural and sporting activities strongly to Scotland and other Celtic nations. But as I have observed previously, America has its own vibrant culture and this Celtic culture is also creatively fused with African and Latino rhythms, Creole and Cajun music and, of course, American jazz and rock.

The sun is setting over the Smoky Mountains as we drive back to Atlanta. We listen to Jack’s latest CD “We’re all Jock Tamson’s Bairns”. He recorded it with his partner Wendy Welch and its title is an apt reminder that our identity is shaped and formed by other cultures that are of equal worth. And it finds an exciting expression here in a small corner of Appalachia.