Monday, September 10, 2012

Land, culture and roots

Scotland's other national drink; an Irn Bru floater. Made from girders.

Montana, 25th September 2012

Melanie and I arrive at the Bitterroot Scottish Irish Festival in the beautiful State of Montana.  Yesterday we spent 18 hours driving from Billings to Missoula via the Beartooth Pass, Yellowstone Park and historic Virginia City.  This is a vast and open state with range after range of majestic mountains.  It's truly “Big Sky Country”.

The Bitterroot Scottish Irish Festival is held in the grounds of the Marcus Daly mansion just outside a small town called Hamilton. It’s about an hour’s drive from Missoula.  Melanie and I arrive just in time for the opening ceremony and the Calling of the Clans. I am hot, tired and hungry so once the formalities are over we go in search of food and shade.  The vendors are selling gyros, nachos and barbeque, but the largest line is for the Scottish food van.  As we join the line someone points to my Scottish soccer top and shouts out, “You’re wearing last season’s jersey!”  Having introduced myself, I discover his name is Kenny and he’s from Edinburgh too. As we shake hands he asks if I am a “Hearts or Hibs man?”  Now the rivalry between Edinburgh’s soccer teams may not be as deep as Glasgow’s Old Firm, but I sense a leading question.  My answer is both honest and diplomatic: my grandfather supported Heart of Midlothian, my father supports the Hiberian, whilst I have a vague attachment to Aberdeen FC.  Kenny turns out to be a Hearts fan and seems amused and satisfied by my answer.  Local loyalties established, we chat about growing up in Edinburgh in the 1970’s and 80’s and swap memories of the Commonwealth Pool and getting fish and chips at Brattisani’s "chippy" in Newington.

This is a friendly event.  Although smaller than Grandfather Mountain, there are a good number of competitors for the highland games and highland dancing, and among the shade trees are vendors, food outlets, musicians and clan tents.  Some people are local and others have travelled from Washington state, Oregon and Canada.  Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves and I speak to a good number of them.  They are here because it is a fun day out for the family and they want to discover and celebrate their Scottish or Irish heritage and culture.  Given that America has successfully exported its own culture, this interest in all things ‘celtic’ slightly puzzles me.  One lady explains that it is all about “land, culture and roots”.  She tells me that Americans have a deep attachment to their land and have their own vibrant culture. However, in her words she explains that “Americans are somewhat rootless” and there is an importance of finding out the “stories of the people who made us”.

So, it’s about the importance of establishing roots across time, a continent and an ocean.  It’s about finding the story behind a surname. It’s about discovering how your ancestors lived.  The stories I swapped with Kenny earlier in the day established a relationship based on memories of a time and place, common experiences and the possibility of shared allegiances. I think that is what is happening at these Scottish festivals too and it is all the more understandable now.

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