"To the Ends of the Earth"

 

Today is St Andrew’s Day, feast day of Scotland’s patron saint. Andrew was one of Christ’s apostles and his connection to Scotland goes back nearly 1,500 years. In 733 a Byzantine monk named Relugas was commanded to remove the Andrew’s relics from Constantinople to “the ends of the earth”.  In sailing as far as he could, Relugas eventually landed with Andrew’s bones on the east coast of Fife, at a spot now known as St Andrew’s.  Today, all around the world Scots are celebrating our national day, so where better for Melanie and I to be than with our friends from Grandfather Mountain Games Buddy, Beth and Sam Arnold in Johnson City, east Tennessee.

As the Scottish historian Prof Tom Devine has observed, Scots have long been a travelling people.  In his excellent history, “To the Ends of the Earth” he accounts for this global phenomenon and why today’s date will be celebrated in the US and Canada, and also across Europe, India, Australia, New Zealand and the Far East.  In travelling, we have taken our customs and culture with us. Our tartan, pipe bands, the poetry of Robert Burns and our romantic history are just some of the icons of what is considered to be a global brand.

Over the past few weeks, it has become clear to me that the celebration of Scottish heritage is not confined to the Scottish highland games and festivals, or even St Andrew’s day and Burns Night.  These are important events, and indeed Melanie and I were delighted to be invited to the St Andrew’s Society of Atlanta annual dinner a couple of weeks ago (kilts swinging to the Atlanta Swing Band being a fun example of a fusion of Scottish and American cultures).  As I tour around Scottish games and festivals, the people I meet often tell me of the other Scottish and Celtic events that they attend throughout the year. And as I am finding out, the calendar in Atlanta is full of such events.

Tonight as we celebrate our culture and heritage, we also pay tribute to the international outlook of the Scots whose contribution to world history has been disproportionate to our size. This feat was acknowledged earlier today by the Prime Minister, David Cameron who said in his St Andrew’s Day message:

“Scotland's people are international in their outlook and have taken their flair, inventiveness and determination to succeed to the four corners of the globe. Scots and Scotland have done so much to shape our modern world. So, this is a day for everyone to celebrate our shared history and look forward to our future prosperity together”.

 

“Sweet Home Caledonia!”

When I moved to London 18 years ago, I shared a flat with a Scottish friend, Alison.  She introduced me to the Scottish folk band Old Blind Dogs.  On evenings when we felt homesick we would put on their CD’s, turn up the volume and - with dram in hand - would think of home.  Eighteen years later, Melanie and I are driving across Alabama to hear a great Scottish singer Jim Malcolm who was part of Old Blind Dogs all those years ago.

 

On a stormy evening in November, a group of fans gather in the intimate setting of the Kennedy Douglass Center for the Arts in Florence, Alabama.  It is like being in somebody’s sitting room and Jim is there with guitar, harmonica and accompanied by Scooter Muse on banjo. It is a great evening of good songs, music and chat.

 

Jim has been on the road for a few weeks, starting in Albuquerque in New Mexico and travelling east.  He notes the many towns and cities with Scottish names that he has passed through on his journey. Some of them like Dallas and Houston are great metropolis compared to their Scottish counterparts, but all are reminders of the influence of the Scots and the Scots-Irish who came here seeking new opportunities. However, Jim’s song, From the Clyde to Susquehanna, is a reminder that coming to the States was a hard life for many, and some lost all they had in an attempt to make their fortune.

 

Having been on the road for some weeks, Jim’s thoughts turned to Scotland. He sings The Wild Geese, a sad song of the exile longing for Scotland, “Oh tell me what was on your road, ye roarin’ norlan’ wind, As ye cam’ blawin’ frae the land that’s niver frae my mind?”. Eighteen years on, I don’t feel so homesick for Scotland, but it makes me feel good to hear Jim's songs.  Proud too.

 

Driving back to our home in Atlanta we listen to Jim’s take on Lynyrd Skynyrd’s Alabama “anthem”, Sweet Home Caledonia. Indeed!

http://www.jimmalcolm.com/

The Friendly Games

On the morning of my wedding day, my best man, Bruce Macpherson and I, climbed to the top of Stone Mountain.  We stood and looked for miles across the rolling plains of Georgia, punctuated by the skyscrapers of downtown Atlanta.  It was an awesome sight and for a moment I felt a little overwhelmed by the size of my new adopted home.  Having got me safely down the mountain, Bruce was to be at my side once again as Melanie and I celebrated our wedding with family and friends at Memorial Drive Presbyterian Church.

 

So the Stone Mountain Scottish Festival and Highland Games are very much our home event and it was particularly good to be there for their 40^th anniversary.  In this special year, the games were graced by the presence of no less than 12 clan chiefs, led by the Guest of Honour, the Earl of Caithness, chief of the Clan Sinclair.  Over two days thousands of visitors came out in the beautiful fall weather to watch the highland games, participate in country dancing, listen to fiddle music, the clarsach, pipe bands, folk music and Celtic rock bands and wander round the vendors and over 100 clan and Scottish society tents.

We started our weekend on Friday night attending a concert by the folk group, Stonewall.  The group is based in Co Armagh, Northern Ireland and play Irish and Scottish reels, jigs and ballads.  This repertoire reflects the ‘Scots Irish’ heritage particular to this part of the USA. Indeed, the group took their name from the Confederate General “Stonewall” Jackson whose Scots-Irish family came from the Birches, Armagh.  It was an evening of good ‘craic’ with excellent music and friendly banter.

As Melanie and I wandered round the games field it soon became evident why these are known as the “friendly games”.  Perhaps it was the good weather, but people we met had the time to stop and chat, or “visit” as they say in these parts.  We met Scots who had moved here from Scotland, others who were seeking out a barely remembered heritage and those who were simply curious.  For us, it was a weekend of renewing old friendships and making new ones.

The enjoyable purpose of the event was well summed up by the Earl of Caithness who told me, “The wonderful thing about Scottish games in America is that they are inclusive … and here we have 108 clans all swapping stories and swapping history.  And you don’t need to be Scots to come to one of these events and enjoy yourselves”.

http://stonewallmusic.co.uk/

The Scottish Emigration Blog: International Stories from the University of Glasgow

The Scottish Emigration Blog: International Stories from the University of Glasgow

"Lines of Descent"

Celebrating the culture of the Seven Celtic Nations at Sycamore Shoals, East Tennessee

Sycamore Shoals Celtic Festival, 9th September 2012

We are staying at the home of our good friends Buddy & Beth Arnold and their son Sam in Johnson City, East Tennessee. Sometimes known as “Little Chicago”, local lore has it that Al Capone made the town the centre of his Appalachian bootlegging activities. Whatever the truth of this, Johnson City now has a lively musical scene that hosts the Little Chicago Blues Festival, the Umoja African-American and Latino festival, and the Blue Plum Festival of blue grass and American folk music. 

But we’re here for the Sycamore Shoals Celtic Festival in nearby Elizabethton. Sycamore Shoals marked a turning point in the fortunes of the American Revolution. In March 1780, 2,000 patriots gathered on this spot to march over the mountains and engage local loyalists led by Major Patrick Ferguson. Ferguson was a Scottish officer in the British Army and was killed when his militia was defeated by the patriot “overmountain men” at Kings Mountain. Today as we make the short drive through the beautiful Smoky Mountains, Beth assures us that this is “God’s own country”.

The festival is organised by the Upper East Tennessee Celtic Society to promote the Celtic culture, traditions, customs, history and music of the men and women who settled this part of Appalachia. While all that might sound rather high-minded, the weekend is a fun programme of jousting displays, fancy dress competitions, bonnie knees contests, sheep dog herding, storytelling, folk music and Celtic rock. The vendors and representatives of the clans are here too.

While listening to the music, Melanie and I meet Jack Beck. Originally from Scotland, Jack is a performer of traditional songs and ballads and hosts the “Celtic Clanjamphry” on local radio. As we sit and talk, Jack explains his passion for the folk music that was brought here by settlers from the British Isles. He talks about their songs and fiddle music and how they were adapted locally and fused with other musical traditions. He uses the expression “lines of descent” to describe the link between American folk music and its roots across the Atlantic.

It occurs to me that it is not just folk music that has a “line of descent” from Scotland and other Celtic cultures. There are “lines of descent” in the timing, technique and interpretation of Highland dancing, the notation of the piobaireachd and the rules for the athletic events at Scottish games. These tie many cultural and sporting activities strongly to Scotland and other Celtic nations. But as I have observed previously, America has its own vibrant culture and this Celtic culture is also creatively fused with African and Latino rhythms, Creole and Cajun music and, of course, American jazz and rock.

The sun is setting over the Smoky Mountains as we drive back to Atlanta. We listen to Jack’s latest CD “We’re all Jock Tamson’s Bairns”. He recorded it with his partner Wendy Welch and its title is an apt reminder that our identity is shaped and formed by other cultures that are of equal worth. And it finds an exciting expression here in a small corner of Appalachia.

Land, culture and roots

Scotland's other national drink; an Irn Bru floater. Made from girders.

Montana, 25^th September 2012

Melanie and I arrive at the Bitterroot Scottish Irish Festival in the beautiful State of Montana.  Yesterday we spent 18 hours driving from Billings to Missoula via the Beartooth Pass, Yellowstone Park and historic Virginia City.  This is a vast and open state with range after range of majestic mountains.  It's truly “Big Sky Country”.

The Bitterroot Scottish Irish Festival is held in the grounds of the Marcus Daly mansion just outside a small town called Hamilton. It’s about an hour’s drive from Missoula.  Melanie and I arrive just in time for the opening ceremony and the Calling of the Clans. I am hot, tired and hungry so once the formalities are over we go in search of food and shade.  The vendors are selling gyros, nachos and barbeque, but the largest line is for the Scottish food van.  As we join the line someone points to my Scottish soccer top and shouts out, “You’re wearing last season’s jersey!”  Having introduced myself, I discover his name is Kenny and he’s from Edinburgh too. As we shake hands he asks if I am a “Hearts or Hibs man?”  Now the rivalry between Edinburgh’s soccer teams may not be as deep as Glasgow’s Old Firm, but I sense a leading question.  My answer is both honest and diplomatic: my grandfather supported Heart of Midlothian, my father supports the Hiberian, whilst I have a vague attachment to Aberdeen FC.  Kenny turns out to be a Hearts fan and seems amused and satisfied by my answer.  Local loyalties established, we chat about growing up in Edinburgh in the 1970’s and 80’s and swap memories of the Commonwealth Pool and getting fish and chips at Brattisani’s "chippy" in Newington.

This is a friendly event.  Although smaller than Grandfather Mountain, there are a good number of competitors for the highland games and highland dancing, and among the shade trees are vendors, food outlets, musicians and clan tents.  Some people are local and others have travelled from Washington state, Oregon and Canada.  Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves and I speak to a good number of them.  They are here because it is a fun day out for the family and they want to discover and celebrate their Scottish or Irish heritage and culture.  Given that America has successfully exported its own culture, this interest in all things ‘celtic’ slightly puzzles me.  One lady explains that it is all about “land, culture and roots”.  She tells me that Americans have a deep attachment to their land and have their own vibrant culture. However, in her words she explains that “Americans are somewhat rootless” and there is an importance of finding out the “stories of the people who made us”.

So, it’s about the importance of establishing roots across time, a continent and an ocean.  It’s about finding the story behind a surname. It’s about discovering how your ancestors lived.  The stories I swapped with Kenny earlier in the day established a relationship based on memories of a time and place, common experiences and the possibility of shared allegiances. I think that is what is happening at these Scottish festivals too and it is all the more understandable now.

"We're all Scotland's Story"

 

Ed Miller, Jil Chambless and Scooter Muse

North Carolina, July 2012

Melanie and I have spent a wet weekend on Grandfather Mountain camping with our McPherson friends. Despite the Scottish weather it has been a lot of fun and we are driving home to Atlanta along the I-85. It is getting dark, the rain is still falling and we are listening to Ed Miller’s latest album, “Come awa wi’ me”. Ed’s a Scottish folk singer and a native of Edinburgh. He now lives in Austin Texas and performs on the Scottish festival circuit. Ed has a great voice and earlier in the day we had watched him perform with Scooter Muse and Jil Chambless.

 

One of the songs on Ed’s CD catches my attention. It’s The Proclaimer’s song, “Scotland’s Story”. It celebrates all the diverse folk who arrived on Scotland’s shores over the millennia and contributed to our heritage. It reminded me that my high school register in Edinburgh contained Mackies, Macphersons and Macdonalds as well as Di Rollos, Levinsons and Argwals. Whatever our cultural backgrounds, we were all proud to be Scots.

 

As we drive on back to Atlanta the thought occurs that Scotland has not only produced a world-wide diaspora, but she has also provided a home and refuge for people from all corners of the globe. It makes me proud that the Scottish hall of fame includes the likes of the sculptor Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, female engineer Mamta Singhal, the Harry Potter actress Katie Leung and the guitarist Mark Knopfler.

 

So in the words of the song Ed’s that singing, “We're all Scotland's story and we're all worth the same”.

Meet the family....

Parade of tartan, Grandfather Mountain Highland Games

Grandfather Mountain, July 2012. 

The story starts just over six years ago. I was single and living in London. My good American friend Beth McPherson Arnold enticed me over to the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games with the promise of introducing me to 50 single American women. It didn’t take me long to book my ticket and within hours of arriving on the mountain I was introduced to Melanie Pinkerton. Melanie was active in the Clan Campbell Association and had traced her Scottish ancestors to those who had arrived in the US in the mid 1700’s. There started a transatlantic romance, and five and a half years later we were married in Melanie’s home town of Stone Mountain, Georgia. And I became part of the Scots’ diaspora.

 

That visit to Grandfather Mountain in 2006 was my first encounter with my American cousins. Those of you who have attended these games will know the beautiful games field and campsite that are situated under the watchful eye of Grandfather Mountain. I camped with Beth and her McPherson family in a motor home surrounded by tents, smoking campfires and the sound of the pipes being played from dawn to dusk. Every morning after an ice-cold shower, I would stop by the campsite kiosk for my breakfast coffee. On my first morning the lady behind the counter complimented me on my accent. I rather too quickly replied that I was probably one of the few Scots on the mountain. No sooner were the words out of my mouth than the kilted man behind me laid a large hand on my shoulder and with a southern drawl corrected me, “Sir, on the mountain we are all Scottish!”.

 

Really? In fact the population of Scotland is just under five million compared to some 312 million Americans. Of that population it is estimated that 20-25 million are of Scottish descent. Attendance at Scottish festivals aside, this population tends not to describe itself as ‘Scottish-Americans’, and unlike Irish-Americans or Jewish-Americans does not form a caucus in American politics. Its Scottish identity is principally expressed in social or cultural ways including St Andrew’s Societies, Burns Clubs, pipe bands and, of course, Scottish festivals. The main events at these festivals include traditional highland games, piping and highland dance competitions. They are opened by the “Calling of the Clans” and the singing of “Flower of Scotland” and “The Star Spangled Banner”. Around the periphery of the games field are stands representing clan associations, St Andrew’s Societies, folk concerts and souvenir stalls. And of course, food outlets selling Scotch pies, Cornish Pasties and American made haggis – of which more later…

 

Over the next nine months I look forward to meeting more of my American cousins, so if you are going to be at any of the games I will be visiting please make contact and say ‘hello’.

The Saltire and the Star Spangled Banner

The Saltire and the Stars and Stripes at Grandfather Mountain

Welcome to The Saltire and the Star Spanged Banner.  In April 2012 the University of Edinburgh made me an award from the Kerr Fry Bequest to fund a nine month study tour of Scottish Highland Games in the United States of America.  There is an average of four games a month in the USA alone.  Some attract several thousand visitors and are internationally renowned, such as Grandfather Mountain Highland Games in North Carolina.  Others are smaller affairs and more recently established, such as the Bitterroot Scottish and Irish Festival in Montana.  As a Scot I am flattered by this interest in Scottish culture, but am left wondering why these events are so popular.

 

So in the course of the coming months I will be travelling the US visiting a number of games and festivals, starting at Grandfather Mountain and ending at Tartan Week in New York City. Between times I will be visiting Bitterroot Scottish and Irish Festival in Montana; the Sycamore Shoals Celtic Festival, Tennessee; the Stone Mountain Highland Games, Georgia; the Tucson Celtic Festival and Highland Games, Arizona; the Central Florida Scottish Highland Games; and the Queen Mary Highland Games, Long Beach, California.

While visiting these events, I will investigate how Americans of Scottish descent express their heritage and in so doing will account for their popularity.  I will produce a report for the University at the conclusion of my study, but the purpose of this blog is to share some of my experiences along the way.  Please do stop by and comment, or better still make contact if you are visiting one of these games.

Finally, I would like to thank the Kerr Fry Selection Board for its generous support of this study and my wife Melanie who is my travelling companion and trusty research assistant.